Bún đậu mắm tôm: Hanoi's tofu and shrimp-paste feast
It smells strong and tastes even stronger – and Hanoians queue for it anyway. Few dishes divide visitors like this one.
Bún đậu mắm tôm is a Hanoi lunch tray: pressed rice noodle cakes, fried tofu, boiled pork, green rice sausage and herbs, dipped in fermented shrimp paste whipped with lime and chilli. It usually costs 35,000–80,000 VND per person. Order with “Cho tôi một mẹt bún đậu”.
At a glance
How to order
“Cho tôi một mẹt bún đậu.”
One tray of bún đậu. Add thêm chả cốm for green-rice sausage or thêm nem rán for fried spring rolls. Not sure about shrimp paste? Ask for nước mắm instead.
How to eat it
Stir the shrimp paste until it foams, adding lime, a little sugar and chilli. Dip a piece of tofu or noodle cake, then add a leaf of perilla or mint. Eat everything with your chopsticks straight from the tray.
When to go
Mostly lunch and early evening. Shops fill up quickly around midday.
Questions travellers ask
What is mắm tôm?
Fermented shrimp paste. It is salty and pungent, and it mellows when you whip it with lime and sugar.
How much is bún đậu mắm tôm in Hanoi?
Around 35,000–80,000 VND per person at local shops.
Can I eat bún đậu without shrimp paste?
Yes. Ask for nước mắm (fish sauce) instead; most shops have it.
Is bún đậu vegetarian?
Not as usually served, because of the pork and shrimp paste. Some vegetarian restaurants make a version with tofu and soy sauce.
Prices are typical ranges we’ve seen and change often; tourist areas can charge more. Spotted something out of date? Tell us and we’ll fix it. Last updated 2026-09-30.
